The one true cornbread

There was only one bread worthy of accompanying last weekend's meal of Ancho Pork Medallions, black beans and mixed greens: cornbread. And by me, there is only one way to make cornbread.

I'm not sure if my way can be called Southern-style. Some regions may have their own ideas. I can say that everybody in my family makes cornbread the same way, so it's safe to say it's East Tennessee-style.

There are a few simple rules for the one true cornbread:
1. No flour, so sugar. Cornbread with flour and sugar is corn cake.
2. Buttermilk. Cornbread made with plain milk is for sissies.
3. Crisco. OK, bacon grease is better, but who among us keeps a can of bacon grease in the fridge any more? You can't back off any more than Crisco, though. Vegetable oil will not get the job done. I keep one of those tiny cans of Crisco for this single purpose.
4. A cast-iron skillet. Nothing else gets hot enough to make a perfect golden-brown crust. I make cornbread in one of two Lodge skillets: big (10") or small (8").

The one true cornbread is easy to make because it's stripped down to the essentials:
2 cups corn meal (1 cup for small)
1 tsp baking soda (1/2-1 tsp for small)
1 tsp salt (1/2-1 tsp for small)
1/2 tsp sugar (if you must)
2 cups buttermilk (1 cup for small)
2 eggs (1 for small)

I like to mix the dry ingredients, then the egg and buttermilk, then both together. Stir the batter just until it's well mixed. Don't beat it to death.

Put a good-sized dollop of Crisco in the cast-iron skillet, enough to coat the bottom when melted. In the oven or on the stove top, get the skillet screaming hot, then pour in the batter. It should sizzle in a most appetizing way.

Bake at 450 for about 20-25 minutes or until golden brown. Let it cool in the skillet a few minutes, then turn out onto a plate. Cut in wedges, carefully split them, and bring on the butter.

And there, my friends, you have the one true cornbread.